While slowly being replaced by its successor, PCIe 4.0 slots are found in almost every motherboard built in the last few years. As the demand for high-speed computing increases, we need faster, more reliable, and scalable data bus connections. So let’s discuss more about the PCIe standard itself;

The PCIe Standard

PCIe adopts serial full-duplex communication, wherein data can be sent and received simultaneously between the sender and receiver. On the software side, PCIe is backward compatible with the old PCI standard, even if support is not available. Likewise, PCIe is backward compatible with itself, that is, you can use a PCIe Gen 4.0 SSD in a PCIe 3.0 slot.

Between any two devices, PCIe supports links between 1 – 16 lanes. An x1 slot transfers data at the rate of 1 bit per second, an x4 slot transfers data at 4 bits per second, and so on.

During the initialization phase, the number of lanes used can be reduced to the maximum amount supported by both devices. It is possible to place an x1 PCIe device in an x16 slot, but the bandwidth will be limited. Similarly, using an x16 PCIe card in an x8 slot is also possible. Generally, links having the following widths have been specified;

• PCIe x1
• PCIe x4
• PCIe x8
• PCIe x16

This allows not only high-bandwidth devices (GPUs) but also lightweight networking devices such as Gigabit Ethernet to be supported by the standard. Within your motherboard, the vertical bars that you often see are PCIe slots. Any device placed atop these slots is connected with the CPU directly or is routed via the PCH to the CPU.

READ MORE: NVMe PCIe M.2 Vs. SATA – Which Should You Buy and Why? ➜

Advantages of PCIe

Being the official standard in every PC, PCIe has a lot of tricks up its sleeve. It is highly scalable, fast, hot plug capable, backward compatible, and future–proof. Let’s discuss these advantages one by one;

1) High Bandwidth

PCIe provides significantly higher speeds as compared to older standards. This is accomplished through its multi-lane system to increase data transfer rates. Moreover, each iteration of PCIe doubles the speed of the last generation. PCIe 4.0 can push 16 GT/s (Giga Transfers) per lane, or almost 32 GB/s across an x16 link.

A table from Wikipedia shows the bandwidth, data transfer rates, and technology behind all PCIe versions;

READ MORE: Resizable PCIe BAR and AMD Smart Access Memory Explained ➜

2) Scalability

Motherboard vendors can configure PCIe slots in almost any slot size, provided it conforms to the standard. GPUs are typically slotted in the 1×16 slot, whereas NVMe SSDs have designated x4 slots for them.

The PCH on your motherboard often uses an x4/x8 link to communicate with the CPU. This link allows various devices such as ethernet controllers, WiFi cards, and additional NVMe SSDs to communicate on a single x4/x8 slot. We’ll discuss more about CPU and PCH lanes in a later section.

3) Future Proofing

PCIe has various future revisions planned out, including PCIe 6.0 and PCIe 7.0. The latest edition is PCIe 5.0, which packs 32 GT/s per lane or nearly 64 GB/s across 16 lanes. Intel’s 12th Generation (Alder Lake) CPUs were the first x86 CPUs to incorporate PCIe 5.0 support.

AMD’s Zen4 followed with upwards of 24 PCIe 5.0 lanes. In the GPU market, NVIDIA’s current GH100 GPU provides support for PCIe 5.0. The Chinese GPU, Moore Thread’s MTT S80, is technically the first consumer GPU with PCIe 5.0 support, however, support and availability are extremely limited.

PCIe 6.0 and 7.0 plan to increase bandwidth to 64 GT/s and 128 GT/s respectively. In a 16-lane layout, this yields 128 GB/s and 242 GB/s of bandwidth respectively. Currently, the NVIDIA Blackwell-based GB100 is the world’s first PCIe 6.0 GPU.

READ MORE: How to Find Out How Old Is Your Computer – Windows & Mac ➜

CPU vs PCH PCIe Lanes

What if we tell you that not all PCIe lanes are the same? A typical Z790 has 16 PCIe 5.0 and 4 PCIe 4.0 lanes, directly linked with the CPU. Let’s establish a few basics first. Data flows from your GPU/SSD/Networking devices to the CPU, this is accomplished through the PCIe standard.

The Distinction

Staying on topic, alongside the direct lanes, there exist other lanes for low-bandwidth devices, such as WiFi, networking, and onboard sound. To accommodate for these devices, the chipset or PCH on your motherboard has additional downstream lanes. So data flows from your ethernet to the chipset (PCH), which sends this data to the CPU.

In the diagram above, the chipset has 20 PCIe 4.0 lanes and 8 PCIe 3.0 lanes (left side) which seem like a lot but they are connected using a narrow x8 DMI 4.0 (16 GB/s) link to the CPU. Any sort of data that flows through these lanes faces latency and can easily saturate the rather narrow link.

You may also hear of the term “HSIO lanes“, which are High-Speed Input-Output lanes used to connect all the PCIe lanes on your system. They are of not much concern to the average consumer. For context, the Z790 chipset offers 38 high-speed I/O lanes, divided into 20 PCIe 4.0 and 8 PCIe 3.0 lanes and others reserved for connectivity.

Real World Impact

On the same Z790 motherboard, you can use the top slot (x16 PCIe 5.0) for the GPU, and the bottom slot (x4 PCIe 4.0) for a fast NVMe drive (Up to 8GB/s). Any other NVMe SSD will be routed from the PCH, or through the x8 DMI 4.0 (equivalent to x8 PCIe 4.0). If you connect several SSDs and other storage media, you can easily exceed the limits of the DMI link (16 GB/s).

Moreover, on the mid-ranged B660, the link is constricted to just x4 DMI 4.0 (8 GB/s). In the case of AMD’s X670E, the CPU natively features 24 PCIe 5.0 lanes and 4 General Purpose PCIe 4.0 lanes. The chipset offers 12 extra PCIe 4.0 and 8 PCIe 3.0 lanes. However, again, the PCH and CPU are connected with a lacking x4 PCIe 4.0 (8 GB/s) link.

If you’re likely to use more than 2 NVMe SSDs, try considering a HEDT / Workstation platform. AMD’s Threadripper 7000 PRO features 128 PCIe Gen 5.0 lanes directly connected to the CPU.

READ MORE: The 5 Best PCIe Gen 4 SSDs – Best Performing M.2 Options ➜

What is PCIe 4.0?

In late 2011, PCI-SIG introduced initial specifications for the PCIe 4.0 standard, said to offer 16 GT/s or 32 GB/s in a 16-lane setup. The official launch took almost 6 years and in June 2017, PCI-SIG formally detailed the final specifications of PCIe 4.0.

AMD was the first consumer chip maker to launch CPUs with support for PCIe 4.0, starting with Zen2 and the X570E flagship chipset in 2019. Intel was a bit late to the party and PCIe 4.0 came in the blue flavor with Tiger Lake the next year.

PCIe 4.0 adopts a 128b/130b encoding technique to transform 128-bit data into 130-bits. This translates to almost 98.46% efficiency, which is much more efficient than previous iterations.

Impact on SSDs and GPUs

In terms of real-world performance, a 4 lane PCIe 4.0 link for SSDs maxes out at roughly 8 GB/s. This is in line with what most consumer high-end PCIe 4.0 SSDs provide, such as the Samsung 990 PRO and WD Black SN850X.

Most GPUs feature an x8 or x16 bus interface, which is ample even for older PCIe versions. However, an outlier is the Radeon RX 6500 XT, featuring a limited x4 interface. If your PC uses PCIe 3.0 for the first x16 slot, your bandwidth will be limited to just 4 GB/s with the RX 6500 XT. This results in a performance delta of almost 70% in certain titles between PCIe 4.0 and PCIe 3.0.

Apart from that, you could miss out on a few frames with an x8/x16 card. Unless you built your PC a while back, you are most likely to have PCIe 4.0 as it was introduced with Rocket Lake-S (11th Gen) for Intel and Zen2 (Ryzen 3000) for AMD, though you’ll need a B550 or X570 at minimum.

READ MORE: RTX 3070 vs RX 6700 XT: Which GPU Should You Buy in 2024? ➜

Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt

It only took a few years for the market to see a sudden shift from PCIe 4.0 to PCIe 5.0 equipped systems. CPU manufacturers are slowly introducing more PCIe 5.0 slots with newer chipsets. Moreover, SSDs faster than 8 GB/s are technologically limited by the PCIe 4.0 standard. So, is it time to upgrade?

Generally speaking, all modern GPUs support no higher than PCIe Gen 4.0. You’d think that PCIe 4.0 and PCIe 3.0 would have a huge performance gap, but that’s not the case.

Gamer’s Nexus conducted some testing and despite the 2x bandwidth difference, the FPS marginally improved by only 2-3% between Gen 3 and Gen 4. It goes without saying that PCIe Gen 5.0 will be an even smaller improvement.

Likewise, in the SSD department, the first argument is that PCIe 5.0 supported SSDs are costly. At equivalent capacities, Gen 5 SSDs are almost 2x more expensive than Gen 4 SSDs. Secondly, the speed improvement is marginal, as PCIe 5.0 technology hasn’t reached its true potential, yet. You’d be paying 2x more for 1.5-1.6x more speeds (Upwards of 12000 MB/s).

Lastly, PCIe 5.0 SSDs run extremely hot. You almost always require a heatsink or even active cooling at times for sustained peak performance. Unless your workload can actually utilize this level of bandwidth, it is not worth the investment.

Potential Benefit of Upgrading

However, a strong point in favor of PCIe 5.0 is that a few of Intel’s upcoming Z890 boards are rumored to feature an x8 PCIe 5.0 slot (equal to x16 PCIe 4.0 for 32 GB/s) for the GPU. This leaves behind 3 x4 PCIe 5.0 slots for SSDs, directly to the CPU along with another x4 PCIe 4.0 slot. So, you get the best of both worlds while supplying more than enough bandwidth to the GPU.

Do note that this is just a rumor and not all of the high-end Z890 motherboards will support this configuration.

READ MORE: Advanced SSD Buying Guide – NAND types, DRAM Cache, HMB Explained ➜

Conclusion

The takeaway is that any modern system should be equipped with at least one x16 PCIe 4.0 slot, with the additional x4 based on either PCIe 4.0 or PCIe 3.0, depending on your board model. In light of these facts, it can be easily said that you must upgrade your system based on the CPU, GPU, and other components, not the PCIe generation.

Older GPUs on PCIe 3.0 PCs may not see a huge bump in performance even if upgraded to PCIe 4.0. The same can also be said for GPUs nowadays, though funnily enough, no GPU supports PCIe 5.0 yet. If you’re on a budget, then PCIe 4.0/3.0 will do you just fine.

However, if you want a high-end system, upcoming chipsets can quite effectively give you many storage options (3 x4 PCIe 5.0 + 1 x4 PCIe 4.0), with ample bandwidth for the GPU, though you’ll need a PCIe 5.0 (x8) GPU, which as of now, do not exist. This is because the RTX 4090 will run at PCIe 4.0 x8 (16 GB/s, equal to PCIe 3.0 x16) speeds since it only supports PCIe 4.0.

The post What is PCIe 4.0 & Should You Upgrade Your System in 2024? appeared first on Appuals.

Mapping out the best possible and most efficient airflow direction and fan placement can be hectic. Especially since the complex jargon thrown here and there by enthusiasts can easily confuse new PC builders. So, what is your PC’s best possible fan configuration to achieve optimum airflow and cooling? Follow this guide for more details.

Basics of PC Fans

PC cooling works based on a very simple rule, cold air in, hot air out. If any one of these two checks is not satisfied, you will not achieve the desired temperatures. Staying on topic, PC fans mostly come pre-installed in cases nowadays. The quality and quantity as well vary a lot, though you can always go for aftermarket options.

1) Fan Size

If you’re out shopping for PC fans, you must’ve come to know that PC fans, like clothes come in different shapes and sizes. Larger fans at around 200mm can push through more air, however, most PC cases top out at say 120–140mm.

READ MORE: Case Fan Bearing Types – Differences And Comparison ➜

2) CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute)

CFM stands for Cubic Feet per Minute and is used to measure the volume of air that a fan can push through within 1 minute. A higher number means more volume filled, with most decent fans offering upwards of 50 CFM for 120mm.

3) RPM (Revolutions Per Minute)

RPM determines the number of times your fan spins in 1 minute. More RPM is normally better, though it can cause extra noise which is measured in Decibels (dB). RPM doesn’t really matter since CFM is a better measure of the fan’s performance. It is best to balance sound (dB) and CFM.

4) Difference Between Static and Airflow Fans

There are two types of fans based on how they circulate air. Static fans are commonly used when there are a lot of obstacles that may hinder airflow, say a radiator or a bulky CPU cooler. Aim for high mm-H2O values if you’re out to purchase a static fan.

If you want to save the extra cash, airflow fans are all about the air volume pushed. If your PC has a lot of free volume and air can pass through unrestricted, airflow fans may be just what you need. It is important to watch some reviews about the particular fan you’re purchasing to see if the claims are borne out by real-world performance.

READ MORE: 5 Best High CFM Case Fans For Efficient Cooling ➜

The Two Airflow Paths

What system parts do you need to cool? Generally, your priority should be to pass as much cool air as possible through your CPU and GPU since they tend to consume the most power. In this regard, we have two types of airflow directions;

1) Intake Fans

As the name suggests, intake fans supply cold air into your PC and dispel the hot air upwards. They provide a cooling effect that lowers the temperatures of your PC components.

2) Exhaust Fans

Hot air rises. The air around your GPU and CPU is heated and rises in your PC. Therefore, people generally install a fan at the rear end of their PC to drive off the unwanted heat.

To determine in which way your fan throws air, look for markings on the fan itself. A small arrow should indicate the direction in which the fan blows air. Likewise, if no such indications exist, inspect the curves of the blades. If the fan curves towards you, that’s the exhaust side.

READ MORE: How to Optimize and Maintain Positive Airflow in Your Gaming PC ➜

Types of Air Pressure

Typically, there are 3 kinds of air pressure, each having its own flaws and benefits. Ideally, there should be a minimal difference between these types of air pressure at any given time. However, we must go over them to get an idea of what a balanced configuration looks like.

1) Positive Air Pressure

To achieve positive air pressure inside your PC’s case, there should exist more intake fans than exhaust fans. This leads to the air pressure in your case being higher than the surroundings.

• Less Dust.
• Steady/Larger flow of cool air over components.
• Inadequate exhaust airflow.

2) Negative Air Pressure

Negative air pressure effectively means more exhaust fans than intake fans. This creates a net negative air pressure in your case, which does attract more dust since air flows from high -> low air pressure. However, it has the added benefit of removing excess hot air.

• Efficient removal of exhaust.
• Increased dust accumulation.
• Potential cooling imbalance if not configured properly.

3) Neutral Air Pressure

The ideal configuration should be neutral, wherein the number of intake fans is equal to the number of exhaust fans. The only caveat in this scenario would be the placement of these fans which we shall touch on in the next section.

• A balance between positive and negative air pressure.
• Theoretically, the amount of air taken in will be equal to the amount of air pushed out.
• Is slightly harder to achieve.

READ MORE: Effective way to improve Fan Curve of Over-Heating GPU [Guide] ➜

Different Types of Fan Configurations

Achieving the lowest temperatures for your PC is a game of min-maxing. There is no mathematical formula or one-size-fits-all solution in this case. You can, however, be within the margin of error of the best cooling possible should you attain a balanced configuration. What exactly does a balanced configuration mean then?

1) Single Fan Configurations

Most commonly found in OEM solutions, a single fan exhaust solution can only cool low-end desktops. If you use an old system or components that use less wattage, you can make do with this setup though it would be preferable to have at least one intake fan as well.

On the flip side, a single intake fan could be a disaster for your PC. Unless you use very low-power components, the hot air will just accumulate inside, basking every other component in its heat.

When to Use This Config?

If you have a low-power CPU and GPU, this could be a decent configuration for your PC. Provided your case has the option, we strongly recommend getting 1 intake and 1 exhaust fan to get the best of both worlds.

2) Dual/Triple Fan Configurations

A dual fan configuration with a rear and a front fan is a perfect example of neutral air pressure. The air moves from the front to the back, straightforwardly flowing over the main components. If you prefer, you may install another intake fan at the front for enhanced airflow.

Most pre-built gaming PCs arrive in a triple fan setup with 2 intakes and 1 exhaust fan. If you run a mid-ranged setup, this should be perfect for your needs. The second fan at the front will provide ample cooling to the GPU within say 150W.

However, make sure that the airflow is not obstructed by meshes and poor design choices, which most budget PC cases are victims of.

When to Use this Config?

This setup aims towards neutral to positive air pressure and is suitable for budget/mid-ranged setups. Do note that you should keep the size and wattage of your components in check. If your CPU cooler is very large, airflow might be obstructed and the same goes for the GPU.

READ MORE: 7 Best Coolers For Intel Core i9-14900K in 2024 ➜

3) Multi-Fan Configurations

A setup with 2 front intakes, and 1 top and 1 rear exhaust could be a worthy upgrade over the triple fan configuration we discussed above. The air pressure is neutral in this scenario, however, your mileage may vary since the air from the lower intake fan at the front still needs some push to move up towards the exhaust.

Alternatively, you could opt for a bottom intake fan. This will create significantly positive air pressure, however, if your case design allows for unobstructed airflow thanks to the absence of a bottom-mounted PSU, this setup efficiently circulates air around your GPU.

If you have the budget and the appropriate case, a front, rear, bottom, and top setup could do you and your GPU and CPU wonders. While the aim for neutrality continues, it is hard to find flaws within this setup.

When to Use this Config?

If you have a decent rig and don’t want to dabble into AIO territory, these multi-fan configurations will do just fine. However, if you run unlocked 250W+ CPUs, you will need very strong air cooling or preferably a good AIO unit which we’ll discuss below.

4) All-in-Ones (AIOs)

AIOs are most often placed at the top of your PC, rather than the front. The fans can be set into push or pull mode, with the former pushing out heat, from the radiator, and simultaneously, from the PC. Similarly, the pull configuration, although rare, pulls in air which of course heats up since it passes through the already-hot radiator.

The most common AIO configuration is a top-mounted push layout. The CPU generates heat, this heat travels in the form of a liquid to the radiator (in red). The fans (in green) push out the heat from the radiators and create an exhaust at the same time.

A top-mounted pull design can lead to even lower CPU temperatures, however, it may increase the overall case temperature. Likewise, this decision will require some changes to your fan setup to achieve a balance between intake and exhaust fans.

When to Use AIOs?

AIOs are more aesthetically pleasing than a normal air cooler. They can be costly and if are satisfied with your current cooler’s performance you should not burn money on an expensive AIO, unless you’re really compelled by the looks.

READ MORE: Best AiO Coolers – 120, 240 and 360mm ➜

Which Fan Setup Suits You the Most?

Depending on your PC’s specifications and power consumption, you first want to make sure whether you want to use a normal air cooler or an AIO. Afterward, based on your PC’s case and budget, decide on the number of PC fans you can purchase.

You must choose your GPU accordingly. In a particular case, Linus found that his RTX 3090 ran at higher temperatures with two intake fans and one exhaust fan compared to having just one exhaust fan.

That video was debunked and the conclusion came out to be that the GPU was benefitting more from a negative air pressure. While installing two intake fans at the front would seem beneficial to anyone, even according to us, that specific build required a bottom intake fan as well to push the GPU’s hot air upwards.

Long story short, the GPU was too large, the case was too small and there should’ve been a bottom intake fan for the GPU. Select a case that allows you to install a fan at the bottom and make sure it’s not on a carpeted surface if you do so.

Budget cases cover the front intake fans with unnecessary plastic, hindering the airflow significantly. Whatever you do, avoid PCs with a solid front panel like the plague. It is also necessary to make sure your CPU cooler is appropriate for your processor; you wouldn’t want to pair an i9-14900KS with the stock Intel cooler.

READ MORE: How To Control The Fan Speeds Of Your Newly Built Gaming PC ➜

Conclusion

To achieve the perfect airflow, determine and re-evaluate your requirements. You may need to upgrade your casing or fan set if your components are power-hungry. Avoid dust build-up and perform routine maintenance on your system.

Fan orientation and pressure types don’t really matter as long as you maintain a balanced setup. Likewise, if you think you have the best possible orientation, try upgrading your fans based on the CFM / mm-H2O values.

The ambient temperature can also affect your PC’s performance a lot. Since this factor is not under your control, try undervolting your GPU and CPU, which can sometimes give better performance and even prolong your GPU’s lifespan.

The post How to Choose the Best PC Fan Direction for Optimal Cooling appeared first on Appuals.

Both Lenovo and HP have a strong foothold in the laptop market. While there are other options like Dell, MSI, ASUS, and whatnot but since you’ve clicked on this article, we’ll assume only these two have caught your fancy. So let’s start with a bit of history.

A Brief Overview

Both laptop manufacturers have been a part of the game since before the 2000s. To the average consumer these companies simply manufacture laptops, however, they serve the market in a much broader sense. Did you know that Lenovo once sold its own mobile phones?

HP

HP stands for Hewlett–Packard and it is a multinational technology company situated in the USA. It was founded in 1939 and has catered to almost every market in the IT industry; PCs, Printers, Software, Support, 3D Printing, and Laptops.

Lenovo

Lenovo is another multinational technology company centered in China, with headquarters in the USA. Despite being founded in 1984, the name “Lenovo” came into being in 2004. Just a year later, Lenovo purchased IBM’s personal computer, which included the iconic “ThinkPad” lineup. So now you know that Lenovo’s ThinkPad series carries some serious weight behind its name.

READ MORE: How to Fix Black Line on Lenovo Laptop Screen in 2024 ➜

Different Laptop Offerings

Lenovo and HP have a large number of choices when it comes to laptops, for every segment of the market. Across both brands, you will find perfect entry-level options, mid-range offerings, MacBook competitors, and gaming-centric laptops.

As you move across the spectrum, all brands tend to pack extra features. Buying a laptop is not like buying a PC, where you simply see the specifications and click on “Purchase“. Extra features, such as the ones mentioned below can significantly overhaul your experience;

• 2-in-1 Laptops
• 360° Rotatable Laptops
• Screen Refresh Rate (Typically >60Hz)
• Fingerprint Sensor
• Larger Battery (Typically >50Wh)
• Higher TDP/TGP GPUs (Typically >100W)
• Touchscreen Display
• High Resolution Display (Typically >1080p)
• OLED/Mini-LED Displays
• MUX Switch
• USB/Thunderbolt/HDMI Ports and Card Readers

Now it is important to note that there is no “standard” segment division across both brands. Moreover, since both produce so many laptops, the question of “Which brand is better?” ultimately depends on the model you purchase. However, let’s delve into this topic case by case;

HP

Starting with HP, we find many choices for every price segment. Entry-level or budget offerings include the HP Essential and the HP Pavillion series. These fall under mainstream budget laptops and offer great value for money.

Next up in the mid-range segment, exists the HP Envy. With a few more added quirks such as a fingerprint sensor, better display, touchscreen, larger battery etcetera the high-end spectrum is treated with the HP Spectre series.

• Entry–Level: HP Pavillion/Essential
• Mid–Range: HP ENVY
• High–End: HP Spectre
• Business–Oriented: HP ProBook/EliteBook
• Gaming: HP Omen

On the more business side of things, HP has its ProBook and EliteBook lineups for customers. Notably, ProBook is slightly inferior to EliteBook as suggested by the naming. Lastly, gaming enthusiasts and HP fans always prefer the Omen series, though upgradability may vary from model to model.

Lenovo

As is the case with HP, Lenovo is no slouch when it comes to offering the best bang for buck laptops. Lenovo particularly excels in the budget and mid-range segment with its esteemed ThinkPad lineup.

If you want the simple tl;dr, the IdeaPad is designated for the entry–level segment, ThinkPad for the business, and Legion for the high-end market. However, Lenovo has its own slightly confusing way of compartmentalizing its laptops.

• Entry–Level: Lenovo IdeaPad (1,3,5), Yoga (6)
• Mid–Range: Lenovo IdeaPad (7)
• High–End: Lenovo IdeaPad (9), Yoga (7,9)
• Business–Oriented: Lenovo ThinkPad/ThinkBook
• Gaming: Lenovo Legion

Yoga is synonymous with 360° and sometimes even 2-in-1 laptops in the Lenovo world. IdeaPad extends from the low-end to high-end markets. ThinkPads are superior to ThinkBooks in various ways, but both are not limited to businesses. Like HP’s EliteBooks, some users prefer ThinkPads in the mid-ranged/high-end range.

READ MORE: How to Fix HP Laptop That Won’t Charge Anymore? ➜

Which Laptop Should You Purchase?

Now that we’ve detailed the various laptop offerings from both brands, which laptop should you buy? There are many factors, but generally, you don’t compare brands, you compare models. Likewise, it depends if you’re buying used or brand new.

1) Quirks About Lenovo and HP

Laptops from both parties have a few things you should look out for; good and bad.

HP

A very common issue seen with HP laptops is a loose hinge. Some symptoms include a stiff or even a loose hinge that may break over time. Moreover, HP’s laptops come installed with bloatware which you can remove but is a hassle.

HP’s design is mostly sleek and very aesthetically pleasing. HP Spectre and higher-end ENVY/Pavillion models “generally” feature an Aluminium body and thus are more durable and better at conducting heat.

Lenovo

Users have reported issues of “Screen Flickering” and keyboard problems with Lenovo laptops. On a similar note, Lenovo’s Vantage software is notorious for bugs and glitches.

ThinkPads, despite their lackluster appearance, have become a fan favorite amongst many. They are the go-to MacBook competitor choice for users. Fun fact, ThinkPads are so popular, that they have their own dedicated Subreddit.

2) “The More You Spend, The More You Save”

An altered version of Jensen’s famous quote, “The more you buy, the more you save“. In this context, the key takeaway is that budget laptops will tend to cheap out on components, whether you go for HP or Lenovo.

If you spend $500 on either brand, you may not notice a huge difference in the experience offered. You won’t generally see cheap Pavillions/IdeaPads with Aluminium bodies, so you should keep your expectations in check. If you don’t want to spend a fortune, ThinkPads and EliteBooks may just be what you’re looking for.

3) Model Over Brand Name

As we’re dealing with two very reputable brands, you should always compare the specifications of their models rather than the brands themselves. The first key step is to check the on-paper specifications; CPU, GPU, Memory, Storage, Display etcetera.

Afterward, verify the extra features, upgrade path, and thermal solution, and finally check at least 3-4 different reviews, on different platforms. Here are a few things you should look out for:

• Prefer a modern CPU such as AMD’s Zen4/Zen5 or Intel’s Meteor Lake/Lunar Lake. Note: Intel’s 12th, 13th, and 14th generations utilize the same underlying architecture. Meteor Lake, while a step in the positive direction, will be superseded by Lunar Lake-MX and Arrow Lake in the upcoming months.
• Prefer a high-wattage GPU, though make sure you’re not overpaying for 140W RTX 4050, 4060, and 4070 variants as they barely scale past 100W. (Image Credit: Jarrod’sTech)
  
• If you have 16GB or less memory, make sure it is upgradable and your laptop has a dual-slot configuration. LPDDR memory is soldered and not upgradeable.
• Always prefer an IPS panel over TN since the difference is quite perceivable. Likewise, stick with 1080p or higher.
• If you want on-the-go gaming, make sure your Legion/Omen laptop has a MUX switch.

READ MORE: How to Update BIOS on A HP Desktop/Laptop ➜

4) New vs. Used

A brand-new laptop comes with a fresh unboxing experience, a warranty, and the assurance that it has not been used beforehand. For this peace of mind, you may have to pay extra but for some, it is worth it. However, if you want to save some cash and go the used route, be ready to perform some stringent testing.

Here is how you should check your laptop if you’re going the second-hand route:

1. Check the body for any damages/scratches. Afterward, see if the screen is scratched or not.
2. Test the keyboard and trackpad thoroughly.
3. Test all the included I/O ports.
4. After you’ve physically inspected the laptop, take a USB flash drive with you containing software such as FurMark, CPU-Z, HWiNFO, and AIDA64.
5. Stress test the laptop to see if it thermal throttles. Temperatures within 90°C are acceptable but do check reviews to find the median range for your laptop.
6. Stress your GPU using FurMark and keep an eye out for crashes.
7. Some laptops have a battery health indicator in their BIOS such as Dell. However, you can use HWiNFO or Windows Battery Report to know your battery health.
8. Test the laptop for at least 1 hour to see how much battery you drain. Taking into account the excessive workload, you can get an estimated screen-on-time figure.
9. Get a minimum warranty of a couple of days for extra peace of mind.

5) Local Market Variance

The prices and availability of laptops depend significantly upon your region. Sometimes, manufacturers choose not to launch specific high-end models in certain countries. If you are keen on buying new, then visit your local retailer or browse their website to see whatever models are available.

After enough research, you should have a few models in mind. It is a good practice to take suggestions from your local community groups such as those on Facebook, Reddit, and whatnot. The next step is to watch reviews or one-on-one comparisons of said models and then purchase. Make sure to keep the aforementioned checks in mind.

6) Battery Life

If your primary concern is battery life, a popular suggestion will be to get an Apple silicon-based MacBook. If you cannot leave the Windows ecosystem, the recently launched Snapdragon X Elite processors are worth looking into, but the support is shabby, to say the least.

Battery life isn’t primarily decided by the manufacturer but by the CPU/SoC used in the laptop. Another option would be to wait for Strix Point / Granite Ridge or Lunar Lake if you don’t want to rely on x86 to ARM translation layers.

Another solution is to simply opt for a laptop with a large battery. It is recommended not to purchase a laptop with a battery lower than 50Wh, however, if your laptop features a low-power CPU with a “U” suffix, like the Ryzen 7 5800U/i5-1235U, >40Wh is the target. The higher, the better, but the more bulkier and heavier your laptop will be.

READ MORE: The 5 Best Laptops for Small Businesses in 2024 [All Budgets] ➜

Conclusion

As a general rule of thumb, whether it be HP, Lenovo, Dell, or whatever brand, a higher-end model will have better thermals, better specifications, and a better build quality than the rest. Ultimately, as we reiterate, compare the models, not the brands.

Furthermore, both manufacturers have various lineups for your use case. Students always prefer ThinkPads/EliteBooks over say a Legion or Omen gaming laptop. If you are a hardcore gamer, then that begs the question, “Why not build a gaming PC?”

You should also enquire about the local warranty support for both brands in your region. If you are going to pay a premium for a brand-new laptop, make sure your warranty will be entertained in case something goes wrong.

The post Lenovo vs HP: Which Laptop Should You Buy in 2024 & Why? appeared first on Appuals.

What are POST Codes?

We have a detailed guide regarding the actual process of POST, where we mention how to diagnose various beep codes. However, it is important to know that modern-day computers feature Q-LEDs or POST-LEDs. You may find LEDs that display numeric, alphanumeric codes or simply blink/remain static as an indicator.

When a PC undergoes POST, it is made to pass through a series of checks so that everything works as expected when the PC boots up. You wouldn’t want faulty RAM randomly disconnecting during an intense 1v5 in Siege, wouldn’t you? POST performs a series of checks on various hardware components including, but not limited to:

• CPU
• Memory/RAM
• Storage
• Basic Components like the DMA, timer, interrupt controller
• Keyboard
• Pointing Devices
• ROM BIOS

In case your PC fails to boot due to some problem, say at the Memory/RAM level, a DRAM LED on your motherboard lets you know there is some issue with your main memory. Sadly, there is no exact “standard” for these indications and different OEMs use different beep codes and POST codes.

Luckily for us, Q-LEDs are simpler to read since they only feature 4 possible culprits; CPU, DRAM, VGA or your boot drive. Now that we have understood the purpose of the DRAM light on your motherboard, let’s try to diagnose this issue.

READ MORE: What is Power-On Self-Test in Computers? POST Explained ➜

How to Fix DRAM Light on Motherboard?

If the DRAM light (Q-LED) on your motherboard remains lit or flashes, this indicates an issue with your RAM. There can be numerous causes for this error, such as poorly seated memory, incompatible memory modules, or even faulty RAM. Let’s go over these case by case:

1) Reseat Your Memory

If you’ve just built your PC, it can be possible that your RAM isn’t in proper contact with the motherboard. To fix this issue, we can attempt to reseat the RAM sticks, which simply means to insert and reinsert the memory properly.

1. Shut Down your PC and disconnect it from the wall.
2. Open your PC’s case and atop the motherboard, you should find your RAM modules, typically beside the CPU cooler. (Image Credit: G.Skill)
   
   
   
3. Disengage the memory retaining mechanism, generally in the form of small clips next to the RAM modules as shown.
   
   
   
4. Take the memory modules out and place them in the A2 and B2 slots for optimal results. Make sure you hear an audible click when you reinsert them.

2) Disable XMP

XMP enables memory to run at higher than JEDEC specifications, which is essentially a form of overclocking. This can introduce instability and disabling XMP can fix whatever memory issues you’re facing. The option is literally a few buttons away from you.

1. Shut Down your PC and open the BIOS by pressing the “Delete“, “F1“, “F2“, “F5” or “F10” keys. Consult your manufacturer’s guide for more details.
2. Since the BIOS/UEFI is different for every vendor, do a bit of research regarding your specific motherboard model and locate the “XMP Settings” which in our case was under the “Advanced” tab.
3. Set the “Memory profile” to “Disable“.
   
   
   
4. Another method is to reset your BIOS to factory settings but you may lose other preferences as well.

READ MORE: How to Resolve XMP Not Working Issue? ➜

3) AM5 Specific “Memory Training” POST Error

If you have a new AM5 build and you’re facing the same RAM issue, it may be that your memory is still in its “memory training” phase. As silly as it may sound, your system’s memory controller needs to learn the various parameters of the DDR5 kit used to ensure stable operation.

1. If you have multiple DIMMs, follow the steps in our reseating guide (Method 1) and place only 1 DIMM in either slot 2 or slot 4. (Image Credit: Crucial)
   
   
   
2. Boot your PC as you normally would and sit tight for 5-10 minutes while memory learning/training takes place. Afterward, the DRAM light should go out.
3. Repeat the same process with your second DIMM.
4. Your PC should boot normally.

4) Remove the CMOS Battery / Reset BIOS

Resetting the BIOS by taking out the CMOS battery can resolve DRAM issues. In order to reset your BIOS, follow these steps:

1. Turn off your PC, disconnect it from the wall, and take necessary ESD measures.
2. Open your PC’s case and locate the motherboard, on which you should find a CMOS battery beneath the GPU. If not there, then refer to your board manufacturer’s guide.
   
3. Using your fingers, gently pull the CMOS battery out. In some motherboards, you may find a clip mechanism that you have to pull up to remove the battery.
4. After 10-15 minutes, reinsert the CMOS battery and your BIOS should have been reset. Check to see if the error is still present.

READ MORE: What is a CMOS Battery? How It Works & How to Replace One ➜

5) Update Your BIOS

We’re gradually approaching the harder steps and one of them is to update your BIOS. Board manufactures often release newer BIOS revisions that improve RAM compatibility and stability. Updating your BIOS can be both easy and difficult, depending on how recent your motherboard is.

Modern motherboards have the option for BIOS flashback, which allows you to update your BIOS without entering the system. Get a working PC and download the required BIOS revision. After renaming the BIOS properly, store it inside a USB Flash Drive and enter the BIOS to, well, update your BIOS.

6) Faulty Memory

If none of the steps worked for you thus far, we’re entering into the realm of uncertainty — and possible hardware failure. Memory is quite resilient, however, being electronic, it too shall fail someday. A very easy way to verify if your memory is faulty or not is just to borrow a working memory kit from a friend or fellow.

You may also try individual DIMMs as explained in the reseating method above. If 1 DIMM works and the other doesn’t, you have a faulty memory kit. If both don’t work, the next step is to get access to a working kit.

Now try the working memory modules and check to see if the error persists. If for some reason, you still get the same issue, even with a working kit, there are 3 possible culprits then.

7) Dead CPU, PSU, or Motherboard

Assuming you’ve tried out a working memory kit with your PC and you still have to see that annoying DRAM light, then the issue might be with your other components. Let’s start with the easiest to replace, your PSU.

Power Supply Unit

It is very much possible that your PSU got damaged due to excessive voltage/current and is unable to supply ample power to the memory. Try another Power Supply or use your current supply in another PC.

CPU

Next up is the CPU. If you have any sort of avail to a processor supported by your motherboard/socket, check to see if the system boots with that CPU. The CPU features memory controllers which are responsible for communicating with the RAM. In rare cases, this section of your CPU could be damaged, rendering it useless.

Motherboard

The last resort is to swap all your components to a different motherboard. If your PC boots normally, you require a motherboard replacement. Again, as is the case with the PSU, random voltage/current spikes or even ESD can severely damage the motherboard.

READ MORE: How to Find Out How Old Is Your Computer – Windows & Mac ➜

A Word of Advice

POST errors relating to memory can be caused by a large number of components. As discussed above, you could be facing DRAM-issues with a bricked CPU. In less severe cases, maybe your memory is unstable after applying XMP.

It is important to verify each component individually and try to pinpoint the problem to the specific component causing the issue. You could go and purchase a brand new DDR5 kit, only to find that your Power Supply was damaged, not the memory.

READ MORE: How to Find Out What Motherboard You Have in 5 Steps ➜

Conclusion

The best way to resolve a static or blinking DRAM LED on your motherboard is by checking the functionality of each component. Try tinkering with settings at the software level, then move down to the physical components.

Modern-day Ryzen 7000 AM5 builds tend to face such issues. We’ve seen plenty cases of CPUs being bent and burnt, memory kits failing, motherboards dying, and whatnot. Resolving such issues can be frustrating, but consider reaching out to the vendor from whom you purchased your PC, for assistance.

More often than not, they have extra CPUs, memory modules, and other spare parts. Besides, if the after-sales service is good, you might get your PC diagnosed free of cost. Moreover, you also have the option of claiming the warranty on any broken/damaged component.

The post How to Fix ‘POST’ DRAM Light on Any Motherboard [2024] appeared first on Appuals.

If we go by Google’s definition, a motherboard is a PCB atop which other circuit boards are slotted into. Inherently, for normal users a motherboard does not affect performance directly. However, make the wrong choice and you could be severely limited as there’s obviously a difference between a low-end A620 and the X670E chipset, other than the cost.

Motherboard-Specific Features

Motherboards determine the number of SATA, M.2 SSDs you may install on your PC. Whether your RAM supports XMP, or your CPU supports overclocking also depends on your motherboard. The VRMs installed on your motherboard limit overclocking capabilities on unlocked processors.

The number and generation of PCIe lanes also depend on your chipset model. For example, in the AM5 series, you’d need a B650E or better chipset for guaranteed PCIe Gen 5.0 SSD support. Likewise, CPU overclocking is disabled on the A620 lineup.

Different OEMs have their own proprietary RGB solutions, which will vary with your motherboard. The number of memory channels and DIMM slots increases with better motherboards. Moreover, newer motherboards offer innovative technologies built-in such as Thunderbolt and Type-C ports.

All this goes to show that a good motherboard greatly improves the ease of use and the number of features on your PC. So you might think that knowing your motherboard name and chipset is important, and you’d be right.

This guide will show you how to easily determine what motherboard and chipset your PC has.

READ MORE: Advanced Motherboard Buying Guide – How to Buy A Motherboard For A Gaming PC ➜

What Motherboard & Chipset Do I Have?

Off the bat, let’s clear a few things up. Your PC might be sourced from an OEM, or it might be custom-built. Most modern-day machines, even pre-built ones, use renowned motherboard models apart from a few rare cases. Therefore, we can divide the procedure of finding your motherboard model into 3 categories:

• Custom PCs:
  • Your motherboard model and chipset are often mentioned on the motherboard itself.
  • For more clarification, you could use Sysinfo or other Windows utilities which will give you the accurate name.
• Pre-Built PCs:
  • These machines are mostly bought in bulk from retailers and OEMs like Dell, HP, and Lenovo.
  • They often use proprietary motherboards, which will not make things any easier for us.
  • Worst case scenario, you might have to dig up the documentation of your specific OptiPlex or ThinkCentre and sift through the details.
• Laptops:
  • Laptop motherboards are not upgradable and despite whatever information you obtain, it may not be entirely useful.
  • For upgradeability purposes, it is highly recommended you read the specifications sheet of your laptop.

Let’s go over the procedure of finding out your PC’s motherboard and chipset model:

1. Inspect the Motherboard Physically

Believe it or not, but the easiest way to identify your motherboard’s chipset and model is by simply looking at it. This may work for consumer desktops but you could end up looking at all sorts of numbers and figures if you use a pre-built Dell or HP workstation/PC.

Follow these steps to inspect your motherboard:

1. Disconnect your PC from the wall and turn the Power Supply off.
   
2. Take off the side panel, and try not to exert too much pressure on the panel if it is made from Acrylic or Tempered Glass. (Reference Image is from DeepCool)
   
   
   
3. We’ll use the GIGABYTE X670E AORUS XTREME as an example. Here the model name has been printed next to the CPU socket, but the exact position may vary with your motherboard. (Reference Image is from GIGABYTE)
   
   

2. Check the System Information

Windows offers a utility called System Information which is a one-click solution to display your PC’s diagnostic and troubleshooting information, alongside the installed hardware.

1. In the Windows Search Bar, type “sysinfo” or “System Information” without the double commas.
   
   
   
2. Click on the System Information program that pops up once you search the term in the Search Bar.
   
   
   
3. In the System Summary section, look out for the BaseBoard Manufacturer and BaseBoard Product fields. In our case, the motherboard is a GIGABYTE H510M. Here “H510” is the chipset name.
   
   
   

READ MORE: 7 Best AM5 Motherboards In 2024 According To Experts ➜

3. Use a CMD Command

CMD stands for Command Prompt and is a command-line interface to execute various commands, run batch files, and troubleshoot Windows.

1. Open an elevated Command Prompt. To do so, in the Windows Search Bar type “cmd” and find the Command Prompt option.
   
   
   
2. Press Right-Click on the Command Prompt option and click on the “Run as administrator” option. Alternatively, you can press the Run as administrator option to the right.
   
   
   
3. A User Account Control window should pop up, select “Yes“. Now you’ve successfully opened an Elevated CMD window.
   
4. In the terminal, type the following command which tries to obtain your motherboard’s name and manufacturer; “wmic baseboard get product,Manufacturer“. Make sure to remove the double commas at the start and end. Use Ctrl+C to copy the command in bold and Ctrl+V to paste it.
   
   
   
5. Press “Enter” and you will see 2 new fields pop up, stating the “Manufacturer” and the “Product“. This is the same information that was displayed by System Information above.
   
   

4. Use HWiNFO64

HWiNFO is a third-party software used for detailed analysis and performance monitoring of your PC. This piece of software is widely used by enthusiasts and gamers alike to see all system-level details.

1. In the Google Search Bar, look up the term “HWiNFO” and open HWiNFO’s website.
   
   
   
2. Make sure you have the proper URL (Highlighted in the image below) and click on the “Free Download” button.
   
   
   
3. This should lead you to another webpage, wherein you’ll be given the option to select one of three choices; Installer, Portable, or Portable for DOS. We will select the Installer option as it is robust and more convenient.
   
   
   
4. As you hover over the “Free Download” option, you’ll see a few servers to download the file from. Choose any server you like. We’ll use SourceForge, and the download should start automatically.
   
   
   
5. Once the file has been downloaded, open it and start the Installer. Select “OK” >> “Next” >> “I accept the agreement” >> “Next” >> Select your preferred directory (The default should work fine) >> “Next” >> “Next” >> “Install ” >> “Finish“. The last screen should look something like this:
   
   
   
6. Now you’ve installed HWiNFO64 successfully. The software will launch automatically after you click “Finish“. A screen should pop up. Select “Start” to display your PC’s information.
   
   
   
7. Be aware! Many screens will open and that’s totally normal since each screen serves a different purpose. Do not be alarmed or taken aback. Let’s distinguish between each Window. Look closely at the image below and carefully close Windows 2 and Windows 3.
   
   
   
8. This will leave behind Window 1 open. In the left-corner, under your PC’s name, simply click on “Motherboard“. The right panel will then show all the details about your motherboard.
   
   
   

READ MORE: How to Find Out How Old Is Your Computer – Windows & Mac ➜

5. Read OEM Documentation

If your PC was built by an OEM and uses a proprietary motherboard, the above steps might have done you no good. For this part of the guide, we’ll use a real-world example of a pre-built setup from Lenovo and show how you too can find details regarding your motherboard.

Please note that this method requires a bit of research and depends on your manufacturer. Follow these steps as we’ll explain through a practical example;

1. Search up your BaseBoard Manufacturer and BaseBoard Product/Version name through System Information, as shown above. From our example, the Manufacturer is Lenovo and the BaseBoard Version is “0B98401 PRO“. We’ve also highlighted the System Model and SKU since they are important for OEM builds.
   
   
   
2. The motherboard is made by Lenovo, but we are still unsure of the chipset. Such PCs are supplied in bulk to organizations such as offices and schools and sold off at cheaper rates to the mainstream market. At this point, we are entirely dependent on Lenovo, that is, if they have any sort of documentation for this PC.
   
3. Open Google and try searching for combinations of these different strings. As an example, we will search “lenovo 0b98401 3943 i3-3220” which is basically the Manufacturer + Motherboard Version + System SKU + CPU Model. Let’s open the first result, which quite luckily is a specification PDF.
   
   
   
4. From the PDF it appears that this PC was a part of the ThinkCentre Edge 72 Small and Tower lineup.
   
   
   
5. Reading the entire PDF for your specific PC can be tedious. We can press Ctrl+F to search against the CPU model, which is the i3-3220. The first result matches our criteria. Moreover, within the details, we find that the “0B98401 PRO” motherboard is based on the Intel H61 chipset.
   
   

READ MORE: How Much Should You Actually Spend on A Motherboard? ➜

Conclusion

Nowadays, it is quite easy to identify your motherboard model and whatever chipset it is based on if you plan on upgrading. Custom PCs use motherboards one can snag off the shelf from manufacturers like MSI, GIGABYTE, ASUS, etcetera, and enthusiasts almost always look at the chipset used, and features offered before splashing out on an expensive motherboard.

However, the same cannot be said for pre-builts since finding their specs sheet is like finding a needle in a haystack. This issue worsens as older Xeons are quite picky regarding the chipset.

By that point, you’d be relying on the OEM to have a publicly accessible PDF or document detailing your system’s specifications. Alternatively, you can search forums and subreddits for help. In any case, it is always possible to find out your motherboard’s model and chipset, whether it be by running a CMD command or by scrambling information from every nook and crook of the Internet.

The post How to Find Out What Motherboard You Have in 5 Steps [2024] appeared first on Appuals.

Introduction: What is “CMOS”?

CMOS is a MOSFET-type technology used for logical operations. In simple terms, it is used to make chips that have low static power consumption. This chip quite efficiently stores your important BIOS configurations, powers the RTC (Real Time Clock), and holds many other important settings.

For the last decade or so, the CMOS chip has been integrated as a part of the ICH / South Bridge chip on your motherboard.

The coin-shaped object on the contrary is the CMOS battery, a Lithium coin cell. This is what powers the aforementioned chip/memory. While storing BIOS/UEFI preferences can be offloaded to say your Hard Disk, since it is non-volatile, a battery is required to keep the time and date in check (Real Time Clock).

The terms CMOS battery and CMOS chip/memory are often used interchangeably, but it is best to know the difference between both.

READ MORE: What is Power-On Self-Test in Computers? POST Explained ➜

How Exactly Does a PC Function?

Let’s start from the basics. Your CPU is the brain of your computer, it does all the complex calculations and determines your PC’s performance. The CPU is attached to a motherboard, on which all the I/O is connected. You use a keyboard and mouse for input and in most cases a monitor displays the output. The BIOS establishes the relationship between all these hardware devices.

When you boot up your PC, your BIOS identifies and configures the hardware connected. If you have 2 SSDs, one SATA and one M.2, say you want the SATA to be your primary for whatever reason, the BIOS does all the handling. The BIOS or UEFI is the first software that loads up, even without an Operating System.

But let’s say you want to save these preferences, I mean who wants to set a manual overclock or change the boot device priority repeatedly every single time their PC boots up? This is where the CMOS memory/chip comes into play. Just like how you require a Hard Drive to store your games, your BIOS requires the CMOS memory to store all the settings and configurations.

Let’s talk more about the importance of CMOS in how your PC works.

The Role of a CMOS Battery

If you’ve assembled your computer for the first time and boot up, the CMOS is empty. The BIOS starts collecting information regarding your PC, like your CPU frequency (Overclocks, if any), memory speeds (XMP), memory latency, which settings you prefer to keep on/off, and so on. It saves this data in the CMOS memory.

The next time you boot up your PC, all this data is tallied against the stored information in the CMOS memory. If you replace any hardware part or change a setting, that information is also immediately saved to the CMOS memory.

Most importantly, a CMOS battery is crucial to maintain the RTC (Real Time Clock) on your computer. This allows proper tracking of time even when your PC is powered off. While most PCs nowadays are connected to the Internet, it is still convenient to have a one-stop solution for all systems. Let’s recap what we have discussed thus far, that is the CMOS battery:

• Saves your BIOS/UEFI preferences and settings.
• Maintains the Real Time Clock.
• Provides power to the CMOS memory.

Since all batteries have a limited lifespan, you may need to replace your CMOS battery eventually. Typically, CMOS batteries last for around 3 years when unplugged from the PSU. But once they start getting weak, you may notice all sorts of problems.

READ MORE: 2 ways to change ‘Critical Battery Percentage Levels on Windows’ ➜

Issues with the CMOS Battery

A few issues that may arise due to a weakened or dying CMOS battery are as follows:

1. Incorrect Date and Time

As the CMOS battery is primarily responsible for powering the RTC, it may lead to incorrect date and time on your PC. While this can be overcome by synchronizing your PC’s date/time with the Internet, it is a crystal-clear symptom of a failing CMOS battery.

Likewise, certain websites will display an error message stating “Your clock is ahead/behind. This indicates that the date and time are not synchronized properly and is most likely caused by your CMOS battery.

READ MORE: How to Fix Real Time Clock Error ➜

2. BIOS Passwords May Get Reset

BIOS Passwords are different from Windows user passwords since they prevent unauthorized users from accessing your system BIOS. As the BIOS data is dependent on the CMOS memory and battery, the BIOS may frequently get reset due to a malfunctioning battery. This in turn also resets all BIOS-level passwords on your system.

If you manage an organization or a school, this can lead to many vulnerability and security issues. As a side note, you can use this to your advantage as well. If you somehow forget your BIOS password, just remove your CMOS battery, wait for a bit (10–15 minutes), reinsert it and your password will be reset.

3. Disturbed Boot Device Sequence

If your PC out of nowhere boots off another Hard Disk, or your primary boot device suddenly becomes the secondary or even undetected, it could be a telltale sign of a failing CMOS battery.

As we explained above, all this boot sequence data is saved in the CMOS memory. If the CMOS battery, which supplies power to the CMOS memory gets weak, this data may get corrupted or even lost.

4. Constant Beeping Sound

If you hear a beeping sound when your PC starts, it might be a beep code indicating a failing CMOS battery. Such beeps occur when your PC undergoes the procedure of POST (Power On Self Test). While each code has a separate meaning, specific to each OEM, this in tandem with the aforementioned problems hints towards an issue with the CMOS battery.

For example, 10 beeps on an AMI BIOS indicate a CMOS shutdown register read/write issue.

5. Irresponsive Peripherals

Another sign of a dying CMOS battery is if your keyboard and mouse stop responding or show weird behavior. If you use a custom keyboard layout, it may get reset. This may be a result of improperly configured drivers, courtesy of the CMOS battery.

6. Checksum Error

When you boot your computer or laptop with a failing CMOS battery, you may experience a CMOS checksum error. This basically implies that your BIOS has not been able to verify the details stored regarding your hardware in the CMOS memory, as we explained above.

The CMOS memory holds all the information stored in the BIOS for the 1st boot. When you boot for the 2nd time, the new information is matched against the data stored from the 1st boot.

READ MORE: How to Fix the CMOS Checksum Error on Windows? ➜

How to Reset/Replace the CMOS Battery

All electronic appliances have a limited lifespan. After a number of years, your CMOS battery might not supply enough voltage to the CMOS memory, resulting in the aforementioned problems.

If your CMOS battery needs a replacement, or if you just want to reset your BIOS, the hardest part is to actually locate the battery iteslf. The rest is just pulling it out and plugging it back in. Matter of fact, CMOS batteries are quite cheap and easy to replace. Follow these steps to do so:

1. Take necessary ESD protections.
   
2. Open your PC’s case and locate the motherboard on which your CPU cooler, GPU and RAM have been installed. (Reference image from GIGABYTE)
   
   
   
3. Locate the CMOS battery, typically shaped like a silver coin. In the above image, it is located just below the PCIe Slot. You may need to disconnect cables and remove drives or even your GPU to gain access to the CMOS battery.
   
4. If you are on a laptop or a server motherboard, kindly check the manufacturer’s guide for more details. Some laptops have a casing that gives access to all components beneath. Other laptops may have several layers, each packing different components. In the worst-case scenario, you’d have to unscrew all the casings and explore a bit.
   
5. Next, use your fingers to hold the edge of the battery and gently pull it out. Some manufacturers will opt to use a clip that you must pull up to remove the battery.
   
6. Once the battery is out of the socket, gently reinsert the replacement in the socket and you’ve successfully replaced your CMOS battery. As a reminder, this process is easier than it sounds.

READ MORE: How to Run A Computer Performance (Benchmark) Test on Windows ➜

Conclusion

The CMOS battery is responsible for storing your BIOS settings and maintaining the date and time on your PC. As is the case with all cells, the CMOS battery may degrade over time if left unpowered for a long while. You will start to notice some serious hiccups if your battery starts to fail.

It is highly recommended you swap out your faulty CMOS battery for a new one. CR2032 Lithum cells cost as low as $1 and replacing your existing CMOS battery for a new one is quite straightforward.

The post What is a CMOS Battery? How It Works & How to Replace One [2024] appeared first on Appuals.

Let’s go over into their performance metrics and overall value to assist you in making an informed decision.

Specifications Overview

Starting with NVIDIA, the RTX 3070 is based on the GA104-300 GPU (5888 CUDA Cores) designed using the Ampere architecture. It hosts a nominal 8GB of GDDR6 memory over a 256-bit interface, netting us 448GB/s of effective bandwidth.

AMD’s Radeon RX 6700 XT uses the Navi22 GPU with 2560 FP32 units built using RDNA2, Team Red’s creme de la creme architecture. The 6700 XT’s 12GB VRAM nets you a huge 50% lead over the RTX 3070. Both GPUs have identical TDPs and results show identical power consumption levels.

Noise and temperatures will vary depending on the specific model you purchase. Generally, RDNA2 and Ampere tend to have similar efficiency levels, so don’t expect to see any significant differences like those found with RDNA3 and Ada Lovelace.

READ MORE: HDMI 2.1 vs DisplayPort 1.4: Which is Better in 2024? ➜

Gaming Benchmarks

We’ve referenced numerous sources for our gaming comparisons, with Hardware Unboxed being a primary choice given its widespread credibility in GPU reviews. While alternative sources are available, we’ve opted for a selection that offers diverse and dependable comparisons.

The test bench features AMD’s Zen3 kingpin, the Ryzen 9 5950X, coupled with 32GB of DDR4-3200 CL14 dual-channel and dual-rank memory. This review dates back to the 18th of March, 2022, so there is a small driver-induced X factor at play here, though we assume the difference to be minimal. For reference, HUB’s test setup used Adrenalin 22.2.3 and GeForce Game Ready 511.79 drivers for either GPU.

RTX 3070 Leads at 1080p, 1440p, and 4K Resolutions

Let’s cut to the chase, we’re obviously not going to be comparing all 50 games, instead, we’ll go over the summary. As per HUB, at 1080p, only Doom Eternal and Assassin’s Creed Valhalla saw the RX 6700 XT beating the RTX 3070 by more than 5%. Moreover, the RTX 3070 on the other hand was faster by 5% or more in 34 of the 50 games tested.

You’d expect AMD to clap back at 1440p, given its 12GB Frame Buffer, however, that’s simply not the case. At 1440p, the RTX 3070 was on average, 13% faster than the Radeon RX 6700 XT across 50 games. At 4K, this difference climbs up to 19% on average, with the RTX 3070 in lead.

NVIDIA is quite ahead in the number game, yet, there’s a small and largely overlooked issue. Going back to the 4K chart, Far Cry 6 saw the RX 6700 XT in lead by a whopping 30%. Turning off HD textures alleviates the 3070’s shortcomings, however, HUB mentions that 8GB will significantly throttle performance, especially since most games set 8GB as an entry point nowadays.

The RTX 3070’s Achilles’ Heel: Only 8GB of Memory

A video from Ancient Gameplay demonstrates why NVIDIA’s choice of 8GB is a clear weakness of the RTX 3070. In Resident Evil 4, at 1440p and higher, Max with RT High, the RTX 3070 simply crashes due to its lack of VRAM. Of course, you can dial down the settings and enjoy a playable experience, but this will become more apparent as time goes on and games become more demanding.

Likewise, without RT, the RTX 3070 delivers an enjoyable framerate in Hogwarts Legacy. Turn on RT, and up the resolution, its lead diminishes against the equivalent AMD card (RX 6700 XT / RX 6750 XT). In Ratchet and Clank: Rift Apart, Raytracing hampers the RTX 3070’s performance, though you have the option to enable Ray Reconstruction as a workaround.

Alan Wake 2 is the biggest offender in this list, since a simple resolution increase from 1080p -> 1440p, reduces the 3070’s performance by almost 4.5x. Let’s be clear, while 8GB is quite low for a card like the RTX 3070, optimization from developers has helped to maintain its performance lead.

The RTX 3070 has very strong raster throughput, but the VRAM eats away at its true potential. Currently, we’re seeing unexpected crashes and performance penalties in extreme-case scenarios. The RTX 3070 is a fine 1440p High GPU for now and should be for the foreseeable future.

Once it drops to the 1080p level, the RX 6700 XT too will see the same fate, since you’re more likely to be compute-bound by that point. Of course, games (+scenarios) where the RX 6700 XT will absolutely topple the RTX 3070 are indeed few are far between, but they do exist and will continue to grow.

READ MORE: Best NVIDIA RTX 3070 Graphics Cards for Raytracing Enthusiasts ➜

Productivity Tests

Let’s go over the productivity portion, and spoiler alert, Ampere wins this hands down. Using data from thefpsreview, we have several benchmarks in Blender, LuxMark, SPECviewperf, Geekbench and even Stable Diffusion.

Kicking off with Blender Open Data, with NVIDIA set to CUDA and AMD set to OpenCL, the RTX 3070 beats the RX 6700 XT by around 27%. Twisting things up with RTX Optix, an RT framework, and NVIDIA’s wild card, the RTX 3070 smokes the RX 6700 XT by almost 66%.

In LuxMark v4.0 HallBench using the OpenCL API, the RTX 3070 is, once again, 39% faster than its AMD equivalent. SPECviewperf shows some interesting results, keeping the RX 6700 XT on par with the RTX 3060 Ti. Yet, the RTX 3070 leads by 12%. Lastly in Geekbench 5, OpenCL and Vulkan see the RTX 3070 ahead by 37% and 112% respectively than the RX 6700 XT.

Stable Diffusion, an AI-enabled image generator harnesses the power of Tensor cores, Matrix or AI cores available on select GPUs. The RTX 3070 can generate roughly 10 768×768, 50-step images in 1 minute. The RX 6700 XT on the contrary, very sluggishly outputs only 1 said image per minute. That’s a huge difference and will carry over to almost every other AI generation tool like Midjourney.

READ MORE: Best 1440p Graphics Card Based on Performance and Value ➜

Software Stack: GeForce Experience vs Radeon Adrenalin

Hardware is one thing, but you must have adequate software to back it up. Moreover, adequate software not only includes drivers but also some extra gimmicks and features. Unsurprisingly, both AMD and NVIDIA have somewhat of a comparable software stack, but they do vary quite a bit in terms of quality and quantity.

GeForce Experience

Just recently, NVIDIA merged all of its software settings into an easy-to-navigate and modern package called ‘NVIDIA App‘. Team Green, on the RTX 30 series, offers NVIDIA Shadowplay, NVIDIA NVENC, NVIDIA Overlay, RTX Dynamic Vibrance, RTX HDR, RTX Broadcast, RTX Canvas, Reflex, DLDSR, RTX Super Resolution and a few more.

Radeon Adrenalin

AMD on the contrary, has also improved its software side of things in the past year or so, giving users heaps of choices such as AMD FMF, Radeon Anti-Lag/Anti-Lag+, AMD Radeon Boost, AMD RSR, AMD Radeon Chill, AMD Noise Suppression etcetera.

What’s the Difference?

Off the bat, AMD takes charge due to its AFMF Frame Generation tech, supported by almost every DirectX11 and DirectX12 title. While being a bit tricky to set up and not as good as native FSR 3 Frame Generation, you don’t exactly get anything from NVIDIA on the RTX 30 series.

NVIDIA’s Reflex edges out Anti-Lag+ thanks to a better implementation. AMD’s VSR also loses to NVIDIA’s DLDSR, since DLDSR leverages Deep Learning powered through Tensor Cores. AMD Noise Surpression, again takes a hit from NVIDIA’s Broadcast app which includes RTX Voice.

NVIDIA’s VSR (Video Super Resolution) has no AMD alternative, though Team Red is planning to launch one soon. Lastly, NVIDIA’s NVENC encoder is on-par or slightly better than AMD’s equivalent.

Features	NVIDIA	AMD
Overall App
Frame Generation
Reflex/Anti-Lag+
Video Encoder
Content Creation
Game Filters
Drivers

Long story short, while AMD has launched suitable substitutes to NVIDIA’s software features, they’re either not on par or quite lacking. Moreover, Team Green simply has more to offer like RTX HDR, RTX Dynamic Vibrance. However, NVIDIA does lose out in the Overall App category since the newly launched ‘NVIDIA App’ is nowhere as refined as Radeon Adrenalin.

READ MORE: 3080 Ti vs 3090: Which Is Better In 2024? ➜

The Verdict

Both the RTX 3070 and RX 6700 XT are extremely capable GPUs and neck to neck against one another. With everything discussed in great detail above, the verdict boils down to a couple of things. If you’re willing to sacrifice 4GB of VRAM for better software, and content creation, get the RTX 3070.

However, if your primary resolution is 1440p or higher, your last resort is game developers optimizing your favorite title(s) for 8GB of memory. In that case, the RX 6700 XT makes for a perfect gaming GPU. If you’re a streamer or a content creator, it’s always advisable to go with NVIDIA over AMD due to CUDA and NVENC.

1. RTX 3070

MSI GeForce RTX 3070 GAMING X TRIO

Pros

• Higher Raster Performance
• Better Software Stack
• Remarkable Content Creation Performance

Cons

• Only 8GB of Memory
• No Features for Frame Generation

416 Reviews

-

Check Price

2. RX 6700 XT

PowerColor AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT Red Devil

Pros

• 12GB of Memory
• Options for Frame Generation
• Can be Had for Cheaper than the RTX 3070

Cons

• Acceptable Software
• Not the Ideal Choice for Content Creators

-

Check Price

The pricing, based on where you live, is certainly another important part of the puzzle. If the RX 6700 XT is much cheaper than the RTX 3070, spending 20-30% more will generally not make sense, especially if you can snag an RX 6800 16GB at that price. At similar price points, the aforementioned argument about VRAM vs productivity should be taken into consideration.

Sources: Tom’s Hardware, thefpsreview, Ancient Gameplays, Hardware Unboxed

The post RTX 3070 vs RX 6700 XT: Which GPU Should You Buy in 2024? appeared first on Appuals.

Since Asus offers various laptop models with unique designs, the location of the power button may vary. Knowing exactly where it is can save you time and ensure a smooth start to your computing tasks.

Advancements in Power Buttons

ASUS is known for its unique designs and innovative concepts. What didn’t change even in such cutting-edge designer approaches is the need of a power button for activation. In fact, the role of the power button has remained fundamental throughout the evolution of computer technology.

In addition to the conventional method of waking up your ASUS laptop, developers offer features like Instant-on technology, allowing users to wake their system from sleep with just a keyboard or touchpad input, thus enhancing their experience. Windows also provides a similar feature where users can configure their system to turn on with the action of opening the lid.

Despite these advancements, understanding the placement of the power button in your ASUS laptop remains essential. Many latest generations of laptops have not only changed the design and button placements but also evolved the functionality of the power button to a hybrid mode. In many laptops today, the power button doubles as a fingerprint sensor, providing added security for accessing user accounts.

READ MORE: How to Restart Phone without Power Button (Android & iOS) ➜

Where is the Power Button on Asus Laptop?

In most ASUS laptops, the power button is strategically positioned for user convenience, usually found in the top row alongside the function keys. However, newer models offer unique placement options, such as near the hinge, on the side panel, or even on the base of the laptop. While it may require a bit of searching, once you’re familiar with the location based on your laptop model, you’ll spot it right away!

1. ASUS VivoBook & Zenbook Series

Given the traditional layout of the ASUS VivoBook and Zenbook series, their power buttons are also conventionally placed. Typically, you’ll find them at the right corner of the keyboard, in the top row. However, this placement differs for the Flipbook and Duo series of each laptop.

READ MORE: ASUS VIVOBOOK S14 S433E Review ➜

2. ASUS Transformer Book

The ASUS Transformer Book effortlessly switches between laptop and tablet modes within seconds. With the ability to detach the lid and convert it into a tablet, it’s only logical to integrate the power button directly on the lid. This ensures accessibility whether using the Transformer Book in laptop or tablet mode, as the display panel remains essential in both configurations.

3. ASUS Chromebook Series

Certain ASUS models, such as those in the Chromebook series, integrate the power button into the keyboard, often positioned alongside the Function keys. While it typically features a power symbol for easy recognition, the same cannot be said for its placement.

READ MORE: How to Screen Record on A Chromebook [3 Different Ways] ➜

4. ASUS ZenBook Duo & Zephyrus Duo Series

ASUS is among the few manufacturers to incorporate the secondary panel in both the Zenbook Duo and Zephyrus Duo series. This not only enhances productivity but also necessitates unique placement for the power button.

Given that almost half of the laptop’s base space is occupied by the ScreenPad (as ASUS calls it), the power button has been relocated on top of the touchpad. This adjustment ensures users do not need to stretch their arm across the second display to turn it on.

5. ASUS ROG Flow, VivoBook Flip, Zenbook Fold & ExpertBook Series

Most of ASUS’s 2-in-1 laptops, flipbooks, and folds feature their power buttons on the side panel, alongside other ports. This placement ensures accessibility regardless of the screen’s orientation. If the power button were on the keyboard, users would need to flip the laptop every time they used it as a tablet just to access the power button. Not very efficient, is it?

6. ASUS ROG Zephyrus and Strix Series

For ultra-thin and gaming laptops, ASUS cleverly positions the power button near the hinge, atop the keyboard. Of course, you wouldn’t want accidental inputs during intense gaming sessions.

READ MORE: What is Power-On Self-Test in Computers? POST Explained ➜

Wrap Up

If you’re still unable to locate the power button on ASUS laptop, look for a button featuring a power symbol or the word “Power/PWR.” Many laptops also have an LED indicator next to the power button that displays its power status.

Remember, the stated placements are common for their respective series. However, variations may exist within each series and across different models. In such cases, refer to the laptop’s user manual to accurately locate the power button.

The post Where is Power Button on ASUS Laptop? [All Models Guide] appeared first on Appuals.

1. Basic Troubleshooting

Start with some fundamental steps.

1. Restart: Shut down the system and disconnect the power cable. After waiting a minute, reconnect the power cord and turn on the system.
2. Compatible RAM: Verify that the newer RAM sticks you are attempting to use with XMP are compatible with your motherboard. Refer to the Qualified Vendor List (QVL) provided by the motherboard’s manufacturer for confirmation.

2. Check the Current RAM Speeds

Inspect your existing RAM speeds before adjusting any settings.

Open Command Prompt and run:

wmic memorychip get speed

3. Clear the System’s CMOS

The system’s CMOS retains its BIOS configurations, including memory controller settings that can prevent XMP from initializing if they are inaccurate. Resetting the CMOS can resolve the issue.

1. Power off the system and disconnect the power cable.
2. Open the case and locate the CMOS battery, which is similar to a watch battery but larger.
3. Gently remove the battery and hold down the power button for 30 seconds.

   

4. Wait a minute before reinserting the CMOS battery.
5. Replace the cover, reconnect the power, and turn on the system.
6. Boot into the BIOS, enable XMP, and save the settings.
7. Restart the system and observe whether the changes take effect.
8. If the issue persists, replace the CMOS battery with a new one and repeat the above steps.

4. Uninstall Conflicting Apps

Some applications may interfere with XMP at the operating system level, preventing the profile from functioning. Overclocking utilities such as the Dell Alienware Command Center may be the cause, and uninstalling any problematic software could resolve the issue.

1. Start Windows and right-click on the Start button.
2. Select Apps & Features and find the Dell Command Center.
3. Click to expand the options and select Uninstall.

   

4. Proceed with the uninstallation following the on-screen prompts.
5. After completion, restart the system and clear the CMOS (refer to previous steps).
6. Again, enable XMP in the BIOS and check if it is now functional.

5. Uninstall Intel Iris Xe Graphics Driver

Resource conflicts between XMP and the graphics driver may result in the operating system downgrading RAM speeds to maintain display functionality. This could be the issue when using the Intel Iris Xe Graphics Driver. Uninstalling it could resolve the problem.

1. Right-click the Start button and access Device Manager.
2. Expand the Display Adapters tab, right-click on the graphics device, and select Uninstall Device. In the confirmation box, select “Delete the driver software for this device.”

   

3. Follow through the uninstallation process, then restart the system.
4. Enter the BIOS setup, enable XMP, and record any improvements upon restarting.

6. Disable Memory Integrity on Windows

Memory Integrity is a feature of Windows’ core isolation that might prevent XMP modules from accessing necessary resources. Disabling this feature could solve the problem.

1. Open the Start menu and type Windows Security.
2. Launch it, navigate to Device Security, and click on Core Isolation Details.
3. Turn off Memory Integrity and reboot the system.

   

7. Connect the Extra Power Connector on the Motherboard

Motherboards come with multiple power connectors to cater to different power requirements. Some motherboards may need additional power to support XMP, and failing to connect this extra power connector can be a common oversight, especially by gamers. Securing this connection could resolve the issue.

1. Turn off the system and disconnect the power cable.
2. Open the case and locate any unused power connector, like an 8-pin or 4-pin connector that hasn’t been connected.

   

3. Attach the extra power connector appropriately and replace the case cover. If uncertain, refer to the motherboard’s manual or consult an expert for assistance.
4. Power on the system and test the efficacy of XMP.

8. Clean and Reseat The RAMs in the XMP Supported Slots

The XMP profile works in specific motherboard slots. If the RAM sticks are incorrectly seated or dust is present in the RAM slots, XMP may not engage. Cleaning and reseating the RAM in the correct slots could resolve this.

1. Power down the system and unplug the power cable.
2. Open the case and extract the RAM sticks from their slots.
3. Clean the slots and RAM using a Compressed Air Can.

   

4. Reinsert the RAM sticks into the correct slots, typically the A2 and B2 slots, which are the second and fourth channels from the CPU and are XMP-compatible.
5. If this method doesn’t yield results, proceed to remove the RAM sticks, cooler, and CPU. Ensure proper seating of all components and attempt to engage XMP once more.

9. Try XMP on One Stick at a Time

Faulty memory sticks or incompatibility with other hardware components can cause XMP to fail. Isolate the issue by testing XMP with each stick individually.

1. Shut down the system and disconnect it from the power source.
2. Open the system and remove all RAM sticks.
3. Reinsert just one stick into an XMP-supporting slot.

   

4. Close the case, reconnect the power, and reboot into BIOS.
5. Enable XMP, save settings, and observe its behavior within the OS.
6. Repeat this process with the other RAM sticks, ensuring they are placed in an XMP-compatible slot.

If XMP fails with any of the sticks, it may indicate that the stick is faulty or incompatible. Conduct further testing in a different system if necessary.

10. Edit the BIOS Settings

Certain BIOS settings could interfere with XMP’s functionality. Adjusting these settings may rectify the issue, keeping in mind that labelings and availability may vary depending on the system’s BIOS.

10.1. Update the BIOS to the Latest Version

Follow the specific guidelines of your system’s manufacturer for BIOS updates:

• Dell
• HP
• Gateway
• Lenovo
• MSI

Post-update, reassess XMP functionality. If your system features Management Engine Firmware, ensure it is also up to date.

10.2. Enable Resize Bar and 4G Decoding

1. Access the Advanced System Settings in the BIOS, set the Re-size Bar to Enabled, and enable 4G Decoding.

   

2. Save changes and reboot the system.
3. Upon restart, access BIOS once more and enable XMP.

10.3. Disable RGB Fusion

1. Navigate to Peripherals > RGB Fusion within the BIOS.

   

2. Disable RGB Fusion, save, and then restart.
3. Attempt to activate XMP again after reboot.

10.4. Disable Fast Memory Boot

1. In the BIOS, under Overclocking, locate and disable Fast Memory Boot.

   

2. After saving the changes, reboot and enable XMP to observe any changes.

10.5. Disable Auto Low Latency and High Bandwidth

1. Enter the BIOS and proceed to Advanced CPU Settings.
2. Turn off Auto Low Latency and High Bandwidth.

   

3. Save and restart the system.
4. Test XMP effectiveness within the operating system after reboot.

10.6. Reset BIOS to the Defaults

1. Inside BIOS, press F5 to load defaults, though the specific key might differ by system.
2. Confirm the reset action and save the settings once completed.

   

3. Reconfigure XMP settings in the BIOS after restarting.

10.7. Downgrade the System’s BIOS

The procedure for downgrading the BIOS closely resembles the update process. Locate and download an older BIOS version from the OEM’s website and apply the aforementioned instructions to downgrade.

11. Try Different Overclocking Modifications

XMP is essentially a form of RAM overclocking. If other components of the system aren’t aligned with XMP’s requirements, it might not function properly. Trying different overclocking configurations might be beneficial.

Since overclocking varies across different systems, we’ll outline some general steps below. However, precise instructions will depend on your specific hardware configuration.

11.1. Increase Voltage

• VCCSA: 1.35V or 1.25V.
• VDDQ TX (CPU): 1.4V.
• DRAM Voltage: 1.4V, 1.36V, 1.35V, 1.25V, or 1.2V.
• IMC Voltage: Within 0.5V of DRAM voltage.
• SoC Voltage: 1.25V or 1.30V.
• QPI/VTT: 1.25V.
• Adjust VDDCR SoC Voltage to offset mode and increase it by 6.5mV.
• VDD/VDDQ: 1.25V, 1.30V, or 1.4V.
• VDD2: 1.4V.

11.2. Timing Values

• Cycle Time (Trc): 57 or 65.
• Timings: 16-18-18-36, 40-40-40, or 36-36-36.

11.3. Frequency

• Frequency: 3000 MHz, 3200 MHz, or the maximum supported by your system.
• Set RAM speeds to the highest levels that both the system’s motherboard and CPU can accommodate. Refer to the system’s manual or the OEM’s website for the correct ratings.

Should the XMP issues persist, reach out to your system’s OEM support. The problem might be with the RAM sticks themselves or potentially with the motherboard, particularly if one of the RAM slots is defective.

The post How to Resolve XMP Not Working Issue? appeared first on Appuals.

In this guide, we will take an in-depth look at all the different types of chargers, and which one could potentially fit your needs and devices.

Types of Mobile Phone Chargers

Today, most phones, laptops, cameras, and other electronic devices rely on the USB standard. This protocol negotiates the optimal charging voltage and current for safer charging. Over the past three decades, it has firmly established itself as the industry standard.

However, USB connectors come in various shapes and sizes, each catering to specific device needs. The most common now is USB Type-C, followed by Type-A, Micro-USB, USB-3, Type-B, and Mini-USB. These types differ in how they communicate with the connected device.

Then, you also have wireless charging, which, using electromagnetic induction, has recently emerged as an alternative to wired charging. Energy is transferred wirelessly from a charging pad to a device with a built-in receiver coil. Phones, in particular, have a confusing array of fast-charging standards and protocols. We’ll delve deeper into each of these in detail later.

READ MORE: Is Wireless Charging Bad for Your Smartphone Battery?

Mobile Phone Charging Connectors

While most phones nowadays come with a single, unified charging connector—USB Type-C, some other phones and devices use separate connectors.

1. USB Type-C

Many phone manufacturers, including Apple, Samsung, and Google, have adopted the USB Type-C standard. This eliminates the need for carrying multiple cables because it serves as a multi-functional connector. Unlike other types of connectors, it can:

• Charge your device at a much higher wattage (Fast Charging).
• Transfer data at faster speeds.
• Provide video output for external displays.
• Deliver audio through headphones or speakers.
• Even power other devices, acting as a portable power bank.

The USB Type-C connector is also reversible, so you can insert it into your phone’s port without worrying about which side is up. USB-C is also the only connector that supports USB Power Delivery which enables a standardized power system capable of delivering up to 240W of power.

READ MORE: What is USB Power Delivery? USB-PD & Its Types Explained ➜

2. USB Type-A

USB Type-A has long served as a reliable power source and data communication protocol, but it had its own set of evident downsides. For one, there was a 50% chance of improperly inserting the connector into the port. It was slow and often required a separate connector on the other end of the cable, which made it inconvenient.

It also lacked the capability to handle video output, audio output, and power delivery to other devices. This resulted in major manufacturers abandoning this connector, and while it has yet to fully disappear, it is definitely seeing less use in modern phones.

3. Micro-USB

Before USB Type-C, most phones used the Micro-USB connector for charging. While it served the mobile industry for well over a decade, there were some serious reservations about the fragility of its pins. Specifically, plugging it in the wrong direction could not only damage the charger but also the phone’s port itself, which at times was expensive to repair.

Micro-USB was slow and only supported a maximum charging speed of 18W, which, for reference, is found on today’s entry-level smartphones. The connector is now rarely used on low-power electronic devices and is slowly diminishing.

READ MORE: How to Identify USB Ports by their Symbols ➜

4. USB Type-B

Unlike some larger devices like printers and scanners, phones never used USB Type-B ports for charging. While Type-B was a popular connection protocol several years ago, it’s rarely used for powering devices today.

5. Mini-USB

One of the earliest USB power connectors, the Mini-USB was the dominant charging standard in the early 2000s. However, it had a reputation for being easily damaged due to its larger size and less robust design. The tiny pins were prone to bending and breaking, especially with repeated use. This is why it quickly died down and was replaced by Micro-USB in the late 2000s.

READ MORE: USB 2.0 vs USB 3.0 vs USB 3.1: Which should you Have and Why? ➜

6. Apple’s Lightning Connector

Apple primarily used the Lightning connector on all of its mobile devices. However, with the release of the iPhone 15 series in September 2023, Apple transitioned to using a USB-C port instead of the Lightning port. This shift is expected to gradually phase out the Lightning cable from most, if not all, Apple products in the future.

Fast Charging Standards and Protocols

In the early 2020s, fast charging in mobile phones started becoming common, and so, with that, we saw the emergence of various proprietary protocols by different manufacturers. Unfortunately, this has resulted in incompatibility between brands, meaning you can’t always achieve the same charging speed and wattage even if your phone supports it, and you have the right charger.

Some of the most common proprietary protocols are discussed in detail below:

1. Samsung Super Fast Charging (SFC): It is the successor to the Adaptive Fast Charging (AFC) Standard. SFC is Samsung’s proprietary protocol, enabling its phones and tablets to charge with up to 65W of power. Devices supporting USB PD 3.0 and SFC can charge up to 25W, while those supporting USB PD 3.0 and SFC 2.0 can charge up to 65W.
2. Qualcomm Quick Charge: This standard is a family of proprietary fast charging technologies divided into multiple sub-versions, ranging from Quick Charge 2.0 (QC 2.0) to 5.0 (QC 5.0). These sub-versions offer varying levels of power output, with QC 2.0 providing 5W and QC 5.0 reaching a staggering 200W.
3. OnePlus Warp Charge: The predecessor to the SUPERVOOC technology currently used in both OPPO and OnePlus devices, Warp Charge offers fast charging speeds ranging from 30W (Warp Charge 30) to 65W (Warp Charge 65). This allows compatible devices to reach up to 50% charge in as little as 15-25 minutes.
4. Apple Fast Charging: Unlike many other phone manufacturers that have specific fast charging protocols, Apple doesn’t follow a single standard. Instead, it prioritizes battery health over achieving the fastest possible charging speeds. Due to this, you’ll see a noticeable gap in charging speeds compared to some competitors.

READ MORE: [FIXED] Why Does My Charger Keep Going On and Off? ➜

Types of Charging Adapters

Not only do chargers have different cables and protocols, but the charging adapters you use also come in all sorts of different shapes and sizes, depending on your needs and requirements.

1. Wall Adapters

A wall adapter is the part of your charger that plugs in directly to the wall and, in most cases, the part responsible for your phone’s charging speed. It comes in different shapes and sizes. Most wall adapters have a USB Type-A port to connect your charging cable, but newer adapters use the USB Type-C port.

2. Wireless Pads

Wireless charging has recently emerged as an alternative to conventional wired charging, and for good reason. It eliminates the need to have a cable attached, making charging your device as easy as simply placing your phone onto the pad. It’s safer too, since it eliminates the risk of tripping over or damaging your device.

You can charge multiple devices on it, and it can also be universally used in any device that comes with a built-in wireless charging coil. However, in most cases, it does charge slower when compared to wired charging and can heat up your device.

3. Car Chargers

Most car chargers connect directly to the cigarette lighter socket, typically found on the center console or dashboard. They usually have either a Type-A or Type-C port at their end or a cable with one of these connectors.

For vehicles equipped with USB sockets, you can directly connect your charging cable to charge your device. Some cars even feature specialized high-powered USB ports, capable of delivering 10W (5V at 2A) or even 18W (9V at 2A) for faster charging. Additionally, some modern cars offer USB-C ports supporting Power Delivery profiles, reaching up to 100W.

READ MORE: Reverse Charging – How to Use Your Phone as an Improvised Power Bank ➜

Conclusion

Mobile charging has become more complicated in the last few years, but this complexity is mainly to improve convenience. Manufacturers are pushing the boundaries of charging speeds, and solutions like MagSafe show how battery life may become less of a concern for smartphone users in the future.

The post The 6 Different Types of Chargers That Power Your Devices appeared first on Appuals.